A Brief History of Fabrics
When designing textiles, the type of fibers used is of utmost importance. The characteristics
of various types of thread vary from durability to frailty, comfort to discomfort,
and versatility to limited ability. It is important to know these characteristics
before using or creating cloth.
Despite its ancient beginnings, silk remains one of the most popular fabrics today.
A single filament of silk is stronger than a single filament of steel, making it
the world’s strongest natural fiber. Its absorbency makes it an excellent natural
temperature equalizer. Silk has the ability to retain its basic shape and is comfortable
to the wearer. Such characteristics would be valuable additions to our project to
add wear-ability and durability. However, the strength of silk fabric may decrease
with perspiration or frequent washing due to loss of fibers. Silk is already being
implemented in e-textiles as
silk organza.
A second fabric with helpful characteristics is wool. This fabric is made of animal
hairs, causing different types of wool offer different qualities. In general, wool
fibers are most commonly used in winter clothing as it is an excellent insulator.
It is extremely absorbent, able to hold up to 30% of its weight in water before
feeling damp and durable, resistant to dirt and flame. Such qualities serve for
excellent protection against harsh or dangerous environments. Unfortunately, the
more durable the wool, the less comfortable it becomes.
Perhaps the most likely candidate among the natural fibers is an inexpensive fabric
called ramie. It is used in both heavy clothing (such as sweaters) and industrial
goods (such as rope and twine) because of its strength. As well as carrying the
basic characteristics of absorbency and durability, it is also repels mold and bacteria.
Such a characteristic may be helpful for use in medical fabrics.
Another possible candidate for our project is
Cocona® fabric, a new textile developed by Cocona, Inc. in Colorado. As its
name suggests, Cocona is made from recycled coconut parts, specifically the shell.
Threads are pulled from coconut waste products and heated to 1600 degrees to "activate"
the present carbon. The activated carbon is implanted into other fabrics such as
cotton or polyester. The addition of Cocona fibers helps the fabric dry faster and
provide ultra violet and odor protection. The fabric remains lightweight and comfortable,
and requires no special treatment for washing or drying, though particular steps
can be taken to extend the garment’s lifespan.
Because no single fabric possesses all of the necessary qualities for any particular
textile, fibers of two or more different fabrics are woven together in an attempt
to combine good qualities and undermine bad qualities. Weaving is a reliable alternative
to chemical treatment as the added fabrics cannot be worn out or washed away. A
weave of several fabrics may hold the solution to the durable, comfortable, and
versatile fabric needed for our project.
Take a moment and look over our brief history of fabrics to
see how clothes have evolved from basic, natural materials to the complex "smart"
garments of today's technological world.
100,000 to 500,000 years ago |
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The idea of
clothing is estimated to have begun between 100,000 to 500,000 years ago.
Clothes consisted of basic animal skins or leaves loosely draped around the body
or pieced together with sticks and bones. |
15,000 BC |
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People figured out how to
sew different pieces of fabric together using needles made of bone or wood
to make more fitted clothes. |
527 BC
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In Justinian's time, tunics had replaced the Roman toga. Leggings and hose were
popular but rarely seen on the wealthy; they were usually associated with barbarians.
Later the Byzantines made glamorous patterned cloth all woven and embroidered for
the rich, and had dyes and printed cloth for the lower class. |
1300's - 1600's
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Wool was the preferred cloth and available to a wide range of classes. |
1400's
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Silk weaving was very popular around the Mediterranean; it was principally seen
on clothing worn by Italians and wealthy Europeans.
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1790
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Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing. |
1800's
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Swimsuits started out as
heavy clothing to hide one's body while swimming, according to the morality
of the times. |
1823
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Charles Macintosh came up with an idea for the raincoat. He discovered that coal-tar
naphtha dissolved India rubber. He took the dissolved rubber preparation, painted
it on one side of a wool cloth, and placed another layer of wool cloth on top of
original. However, the coat did not respond well in different temperatures since
the oil either stiffened or became sticky. |
1831
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George Opdyke was the first to start the small scale manufacture of ready-made clothing. |
1839
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Vulcanized rubber was invented by Charles Goodyear and then Macintosh was able to
improve the raincoat because it could withstand temperature changes.
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1853
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During the California gold rush, miners needed durable clothing for the work that
they did.
Levi Strauss used the fabric now called denim to sew overalls and eventually
jeans for the miners.
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1800's
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Clothing sizes were established and the ready-made clothing industry took off. Before
clothing sized, you would get your clothes from a local seamstress or tailor who
was commissioned to make individual clothes for each person.
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1931
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The DuPont chemical company started to manufacture neoprene which is a synthetic
rubber created by
Wallace Carothers, a brilliant chemist, inventor, and scholar. DuPont wanted
to create a synthetic fiber that would replace silk. Carothers combined amine, hexamethtlene
diamine, and adipic acid to create a new fiber made from a condensation reaction.
He then later refined the process by adjusting some equipment to make the water
distilled and removed from the process, therefore creating stronger fibers. In 1935,
he patented his invention.
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1959
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Polyurethane was invented by William Hanford and Donald Holmes. It is able to stretch
100% and then snap back together like natural rubber. Later that year, Spandex started
being used commercially in the United States.
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1955
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George de Mestral patents
Velcro. His "hook and loop" design has come to rival zippers as a method
of fastening clothes and shoes.
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1966
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Kevlar was invented by Stephanie Louise Kwolek. It is a fabric five times stronger
than the same weight of steel. It doesn’t rust or corrode and is very light weight.
It is used in bullet-proof vests, underwater cables, space vehicles, and parachutes.
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1988
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Microfibers, or microdeniers, were invented in Japan by
Dr. Miyoshi Okamoto at Toray Industries. They are popular because of their
durability and their ability to repel moisture.
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1988
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Everest Textile, founded
NanoSilver yarn which is highly toxic to germs but not to human cells.
It has passed all safety guidelines for manufacturing clothes. It maintains its
effectiveness through 100 washes, and is safe orally. The yarn sticks to a variety
of surfaces and can be used to coat medical devices to fight bacterial infections.
Using silver to fight and control infections dates all the way back to the days
of ancient Greece and
Rome. In small amounts, nanoparticles of silver block bacterial grown and
remain non-toxic to humans.
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1989
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Gore-Tex
is a trademarked fabric invented by W.L. Gore & Associates. It is engineered to
be a breathable water and wind-proof material.
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April 2005
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Cool Biz came up with the idea for
air-conditioned clothing. They made a jacket that keeps people cool even
in long sleeves from two small, built-in fans about 10-centimeters in diameter attached
to right and left sides of the back of the jacket. The fans draw in a large amount
of air and help to vaporize sweat.
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Sept 2005
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The SFIT cluster brings together seven
smart fabric projects that focused on different applications but all have underlying
projects including connectivity, wearability, and ensuring the fabric is accepted
by users.
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Dec 2005
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Textronics came out with an idea of a sports bra that would track your
heart rate as you work out. They called it the NuMetrix Heart Sensing Sports
Bra. Special sensing fibers were knitted directly into the fabric tracking
the heart rate and sending it directly to a watch or cardio machine. It was named
2006 Sports Product of the Year.
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2008
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Speedo launches the next generation of performance swimming suits, the
LZR Racer at the Beijing Olympics.
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2008
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Eleksken
touchpads, an Elektex product, integrates with music devices, such as iPods,
so that you can control them by "touching" your sleeve. Their programmable textile touchscreen allows data entry and can
be used to create a variety of
machine interfaces.
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